Thursday, May 2, 2013
Family Carnival - Free- Saturday May 18th
Family Carnival
Saturday, May 18, 2013, 11am-4pm
EnergyExplorium at McGuire Nuclear Station
13339 Hagers Ferry Rd., Huntersville
The Family Carnival, presented by LakeNormanMommies and the EnergyExplorium at McGuire Nuclear Station, is a family-friendly event featuring activities, food, games, performances, prizes, and more!
This event is FREE and open to the public!
Attractions include a magic show by Twist the Balloon Man, a live reptile show by Cold Blooded Reptile Encounters, science demonstrations by Rocket Ryan, and an opportunity to visit with characters from Carolina Renaissance Festival. DJ and MC services are provided by Little Dreamer Productions. Main stage performances by Cheer Explosion, Expression Dance Company, Grand Central Academy of the Performing Arts, and Rock University are ongoing throughout the day.
Don’t dress to impress. Dress to move! Burn Bootcamp is hosting field activities and games on the lawn and there is a bounce house to help kids burn off extra energy. Additional carnival games and activities are provided by more than a dozen vendors, including crafts with Pre-K Birthdays, photos by SnookySmiles, face painting by Bird Nest Boutique, and much, much more!
Attendees can get up close and personal with cars and trucks in the Touch-a-Truck area, which features the Coca-Cola Discovery Truck and vehicles from the Cornelius Police Department, Huntersville Police Department, Huntersville Fire Department, and North Mecklenburg Volunteer Rescue Squad. Stop by the Community Outreach and Awareness area to see car seat and baby proofing demonstrations by A Safe Child; enjoy a moment in the massage chair provided by Ballas Chiropratic; and visit with representatives from Earth Fare, Habitat for Humanity, and Novant Health.
Stop by the prize tent where you can enter to win a prize from a local business. Prizes represent a wide variety of products and services ranging from photography to house cleaning, personalized artwork to Carowinds tickets, and fitness memberships to auto detailing.
Need some refreshment? Ice cream, drinks, hot dogs, and more are available for purchase at the Bruster’s Ice Cream truck!
This event is made possible thanks to additional support from Burn Bootcamp, Cooke Rentals, Little Dreamer Productions, and Sweet Dream Mattress & Furniture.
Performances, Attractions, and Activities...
Main Stage
Little Dreamer Productions - DJ & MC servicesCheer Xplosion AllStars
Expressions Dance Studio
Rock University
Grand Central Academy of the Performing Arts
Activity Field
Burn Bootcamp - Field Activities for Children and AdultsSweet Dreams Mattress & Furniture - Bounce House
Kandy's Chance Ranch - Pony Rides
Activity Tent
Meet the Mascot - Photo OpHeather the Storyteller - Story Time
Cold Blooded Encounters - Reptile Show
Twist the Balloon Man - Magic Show
Touch-a-Truck
Coca-Cola Discovery TruckCornelius Police Department
Huntersville Police Department
Huntersville Fire Department
North Mecklenburg Volunteer Fire Department, Inc.
Community Outreach & Awareness
Ballas ChiropracticEarth Fare
Novant Health Hemby Children's Hospital
Novant Health Huntersville Medical Center
Novant Health Women's Health Education
A Safe Child - car seat safety & baby proofing demonstrations
Carnival Games and Activities
Carnival games and other activities are provided by our vendors.Games include duck pond, wheel spin, knock 'em down, penny toss, fishbowl ping pong toss, and more. Each winner receives a ticket to be entered into a drawing for a prize in the prize tent.
Activities include crafts, face painting, carnival themed photo booth, and more.
Vendors
Bird Nest Boutique, Innovative Speed Shop, Jamberry Nails, Mary Kay, Origami Owl, Pampered Chef, Pink Zebra, Scentsy, Shaklee, SnookySmiles, Stella & Dot, Sunshine Borders, Thirty-One, Tupperstars, and WildTreePrize Tent
Did you receive a ticket at one of the games or activities? Be sure to head to the Prize Tent to be entered into a drawing for the prize of your choosing!Prizes
Prizes include products and services from Ballas Chiropractic, Bird Nest Boutique, Burn Bootcamp, Carolina Women's Defense, Earth Fare, Grand Central Academy of the Performing Arts, Innovative Speed Shop, Insley Photography, Jamberry Nails, Jockey Person to Person, MM House and Office Cleaning, Origami Owl, Pampered Chef, Pink Zebra, SnookySmiles, Stella & Dot, Sunshine Borders, Sweet Dreams Mattress & Furniture, Tupperstars, Twist the Balloon Man, WildTree, and more!Saturday, April 27, 2013
Don't Get Burned!
Friday, April 26, 2013
Time Out Alternatives
Monday, October 3, 2011 by The Hippie Housewife
Ten alternatives to time-outs
As parents begin to seek a more gentle method of discipline, they often start by dropping the obviouspunishments, such as spanking or removal of unrelated privileges. Finding themselves without tools to enforce their instructions, they begin to rely heavily on traditional time-outs in place of their former punishments.
The traditional form of time-out involves sending a child to a particular spot (their bedroom, a "naughty chair", the corner, etc) for a particular length of time (often one minute per year of age) in order to "think about what they've done." For most children, however, the time is spent in anger, stewing over the apparent injustice of their punishment. When used arbitrarily or too often, it prevents the child from understanding the true consequences of their action and fails to get to the root of the behaviour. The overall message becomes one of rejection rather than teaching, causing the child to withdraw and damaging the parent/child relationship.
Sometimes a child does need time and space to be alone in order to cool off. In those instances, rather than setting a timer, it is preferable to allow the child to return when s/he is feeling in control once again. "You may not continue to hit/kick/speak rudely/etc. Go cool down in your room and return when you are able to treat your family kindly." This is followed with a calm discussion and reconnection. However, this method works best for an older child who has already been taught the skills needed to know how to calm themselves down, who has previously exhibited the need to be alone in order to do this, and for whom being alone is not a frightening event. Many other children and situations require a different response.
While there is no single answer to cover all circumstances, having a variety of tools will allow parents to best meet the needs of their unique child in their unique situation. Here we will explore ten alternatives to time-outs; as always, I welcome your additional gentle discipline tools in the comments below.
1. Time-In
Children must be actively parented through their intense emotions in order to learn how to process and move past them in a healthy way. A time-in is a prime opportunity for this type of teaching, providing the child with vital skills that will serve them throughout their life.
Rather than depriving children of their parents' attention, a time-in is time together to build relationship, communication, and cooperation. It places the parent and child on the same side rather than pitting them against one another.
During a time-in, the parent and child can focus on working through the situation. It is a time of connection that includes both physical touch and eye contact. The parent can teach the child a variety of calming techniques (deep breathing, drawing, physical outlets, etc) and then move on to discussing the emotions behind the behaviour. What led up to it? What are better alternatives for next time?
A time-in can also be used proactively. In this sense, the parent ensures the child receives focused attention at regular intervals, thereby strengthening the parent/child relationship and meeting the child's emotional needs. This builds cooperation while reducing negative attention-seeking behaviour.
2. Comfort Corner
A comfort corner is an opportunity for the child to regroup in a calming environment, surrounded by things that bring them comfort. A comfort corner may include pillows, blankets, books, stuffed animals, water, snacks, amind jar, a notepad and pencil, music, or any other item that brings the child comfort or helps them to refocus. It should be private but not isolated; it may be located in a corner of the main living area, in a bedroom, in a small alcove, on a comfortable chair, or even tucked away in a tote bag to be pulled out when needed.
A comfort corner is often used, particularly with young children or when first introduced, in conjunction with a time-in. Again, this is an opportunity to assist the child in dealing with their intense emotions, teaching them the skills needed to regroup and refocus. A child must be taught how to calm down and regroup before you can request that they do so. The goal of the comfort corner is for the child to learn how to do these things for themself.
Rather than a punishment, the comfort corner should be a positive experience, a place of calm and comfort. When the child is in need of a quiet break, direct them to the comfort comfort. If they protest, guide them there for some cuddling. "I can see you are having trouble controlling yourself. Let's go to the comfort corner together and I will show you how you can help yourself to feel better." The child is free to leave the comfort corner when s/he feels they are ready.
Parents can model this practice when they are feeling frustrated or angry. "I am feeling ___. I am going to go sit somewhere quiet and listen to music for a few minutes until I feel more calm." This is modelling the essential life skill of recognizing when you need to remove yourself from a situation to calm down, regain your composure, and correct your attitude.
3. Prevention
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." A parent can set the child up for success by ensuring the child's physical needs (healthy diet, adequate sleep, physical activity, sensory outlets) and emotional needs (love, attention, security) are met. Consider the child's environment as well. Excess clutter or noise can negatively impact a child's behaviour; anger and tension will have negative effects as well.
4. Look Beyond the Behaviour
Look beyond the child's behaviour to its underlying cause or driving need. Is the child hungry? tired? hurt? lonely? Is the child teething? Does the child need a physical or sensorial outlet? Does a growing child need additional responsibilities to challenge and occupy their growing minds? A traditional time-out deals with only the symptom; move beyond that to deal with the root cause.
5. Playful Parenting
Playful parenting can be an ideal way to diffuse tension and regain cooperation. Play can also be used to help a child work through their feelings. Rather than engaging in a power struggle, lighten the situation with silliness. Role-playing, task races, and exaggerated threats are some common playful parenting techniques.
6. Distraction and Redirection
Sometimes a simple distraction or redirection is sufficient to deal with the situation; not every incident requires a direct head-on approach. As with playful parenting, this is an ideal way to circumvent a power struggle, given the right circumstances. In the same vein, a change in the environment can shift everyone into a better mood: head outdoors, run a bath, go to the library, or put on some music.
7. Empathy
Sometimes a child just wants to be heard. Take a moment to empathize with the child. Listen to, reflect back, and validate their feelings. When necessary, assist the child in expressing those feelings in a healthy, appropriate, and acceptable manner. "Try again" is a useful script for a child who has already been coached on appropriate expressions of feelings and just needs the reminder to use a proper tone.
8. Put the Ball in Their Court
Empower the child to take responsibility for rectifying the situation. Depending on the age and particular circumstances, this can take a variety of forms, including (but not limited to) the following:
- offer them a choice between two or three acceptable alternatives
- use the "when...then..." script ("when your room is clean, then we can go to the park")
- sit down and brainstorm solutions to a problem with them, allowing them to be a full participant in the process
- give them the responsibility for righting the wrong (cleaning up the mess, making amends to the hurt party, following through on given instructions, etc)
The goal is to empower them to accept responsibility for their actions, think for themselves, consider the alternatives, make a decision, and follow through with solving the situation.
9. Talk and Problem-Solve
In a quiet, calm voice, talk through the situation if the child is the right frame of mind for a discussion. Seek their perspective on the matter and offer your own. If emotions are running too high in the heat of the moment, talk through the situation later after both parent and child have had time to calm down and regroup. The purpose of our parenting should be problem-solving and teaching, not behaviour-training through consequences or punishments.
10. Shift Perspective
Sometimes we allow our own feelings and frustrations to erupt on our families. We overreact to innocent childish behaviour, wanting them out of our hair so we can have a few precious moments to be still and think. Sometimes it's us who need to take a time-out of sorts.
Regardless of the situation, a parent can begin by taking a deep calming breath. Walk away from the situation if you need to calm down, regain your composure, or gain perspective on the situation. Is the situation as urgent or important as your initial reaction would suggest? Are you able to separate the child's behaviour from the child themselves? What do you want to teach your child, going forward, through the way you handle this situation?Keep in mind that the goal is to find a solution, not a consequence or punishment.
Once you have regrouped, go back to your child and request a do-over. Be willing to apologize if your initial reaction warrants it. Get down on your child's level and reconnect with a hug. Take a moment to hear their point of view, and then seek a solution together.
A special note about aggressive behaviour: Most hitting can be prevented by consistent action when the child is very small. The first time a toddler swings with the intent to hit, catch their arm mid-swing and firmly say, "no hitting; hitting hurts". Then gently stroke your cheek with the child's hand while saying "gentle". Repeat consistently. This nips most hitting in the bud, with a simple "gentle" being sufficient to remind them to use their hands gently.
However, sometimes hitting behaviour will persist, appear at later stages, or simply occur in the heat of the moment. When a child hits another child, a logical consequence is removal from play with the other children."You hit, you sit." This gives you an opportunity to comfort the child who was hit. You can then attend to the child who did the hitting, reiterating that hitting is unacceptable and allowing them the opportunity to explain the situation (if they are old enough) and/or calm down with you until they are in control of themselves and ready to resume playing with the other children. This can be used in conjunction with the techniques listed above.
When a child hits a parent, the parent can state clearly and firmly that they will not allow the child to hurt them. This is an excellent opportunity to model strong boundaries. A particularly aggressive child may need to be restrained until they have regained control. Once the child is calm, teach the child what they can do to express their anger (drawing "angry pictures", writing out their feelings, talking through the situation, doing an "angry dance", etc). Anger is acceptable; hitting is not.
Additional Resources:
Positive Time-Out by Jane Nelsen
Playful Parenting by Lawrence Cohen
How to Talk So Kids Will Listen & Listen So Kids Will Talk by Adele Faber and Elaine Mazlish
Monday, April 22, 2013
How to Compost
The Dirt on Composting
Composting involves mixing yard and household organic waste in a pile or bin and providing conditions that encourage decomposition. The decomposition process is fueled by millions of microscopic organisms (bacteria, fungi) that take up residence inside your compost pile, continuously devouring and recycling it to produce a rich organic fertilizer and valuable soil amendment (see Using Your Compost To Amend Soils).Sound complicated? It's really not. All you need to know about composting is a basic understanding of a few simple principles, and a little bit of elbow grease. Nature does the rest.
Note: Decomposition, or the composting process, occurs constantly and gradually around us everyday. The dark, rich soil covering the forest floor is an excellent example of this. When we compost, all we're really doing is speeding up Mother Nature.
Location & Appearance
First you'll need to select your location for composting. Where you put it depends on function and aesthetics.
In terms of appearances and good relations with your neighbors, you probably don't want to place your bin on your front lawn next to the mail box. (Your neighbors, and not to mention your mail man, will also appreciate a more behind-the-scenes location.)
Instead, opt for the backyard, or, if you don't have one, then a
Ensure composting success with a home compost bin available at Planet Natural.
Want to build your own? Here's one simple solution: convert old
You can also skip the bin (a structure isn't essential) and just have a compost pile or heap. In terms of appearances -- and if your homeowners association is fussy -- you may want to screen the pile from view by
From a functional standpoint, you'll need a place with good air circulation. Don't place it next to your home or other wooden buildings as the decomposing scraps and resulting compost may cause the wood to rot. Partial shade is a good idea so the compost doesn't get overheated. Also make sure the spot of land where you place your heap gets good drainage.
Close to the garden and to a water source are both good places for building your compost pile since it will be easier to move the materials to and from the garden and easier to water it. Another idea may be to place it near your kitchen to make it convenient to place table scraps on the pile or in the bin.
Size
Make your pile no smaller than 3' x 3' x 3'. In fact, this is probably the perfect size. It's sufficient enough to "cook" your waste and transform it into compost, but not so large that it will become unmanageable and hard to turn.
Moisture
The microbes that do your dirty work in the compost pile require water for survival, but it can be hard to judge how much water to add and when. Too much water means your organic waste won't decompose and you'll get a slimy and smelly pile that could well answer to the name "swamp thing." Too little water and you'll kill the bacteria and you won't get your compost (seeMonitoring Moisture).
One rule of thumb: the more green material (cut grass, weeds, leaves) you put in, the less water you'll need to add. In fact, if you need to add dry ingredients such as straw or hay, soak the material first in water so it won't dry out your compost pile. In general your compost should be moist, but not sopping wet.
If you are backyard composting and you get a lot of rain, build a roof over the pile. This can be as simple as a tarp. The reason you want to give your compost pile more shelter is because nutrients, or leachates, leak out when it rains. That's not such a problem in a place where rainfall isn't heavy, but if you get a lot of rain where you live, it can make a big difference. Too much water in the pile will slow down the process and can also make it slimy and icky.
Aeration
Oxygen is also required by many of the microorganisms responsible for successful composting. Give them adequate ventilation and they will take care of the rest (see Aerobic Decomposition). You can make sure that the bacteria in your compost gets sufficient air by turning the pile often and well. Use a pitch fork, spade or compost aerator to mix your pile. If you've got a compost tumbler, you've got it easy. Just crank that lever. Don't aerate your compost and it will break down slowly, resulting in a slimy, dense, stinky pile. It's also a good idea to turn the contents since it rearranges the decaying material. With a little care, you can move the less decomposed material on the edges to the middle of the pile to heat up.
Temperature
As they eat, the organisms responsible for composting generate large amounts of heat, which raise the temperature of the pile or compost bin and speeds up decomposition. A compost pile that is working well will produce temperatures of 140-160 degrees Fahrenheit. At these temperatures almost all weed seeds and plant diseases are killed. A "very hot" compost pile will generate temperatures of up to 170 degrees Fahrenheit for up to a week or more. Use a compost thermometer to measure the exact temperature at different locations inside the pile.
Note: As organic material in a compost pile heats up it breaks down and takes up less space. A compost pile can shrink up to 70% as it "cooks."
Adding Materials
When adding organic waste to your compost, don't squash the materials down to make more space. Squashing the contents will squeeze out the air that microbes in the compost pile need to turn your garbage into gold. (Instead you'll be promoting the anaerobic microbes, which also do a good job converting carrot peels and other organic matter into compost but tend to be a lot smellier.)
Also be strategic about filling your bin. Include a mixture of brown fibrous ingredients and greens. A well-balanced "diet" will ensure that composting doesn't take too long and that you don't end up with a slimy, smelly heap. Also shred, dice or otherwise make scraps smaller, which will help the resident bacteria do a good job in converting the garbage into compost.
Finally, after you've added kitchen vegetable waste, throw some leaves or grass clippings on top of it. This will help keep things balanced, reduce smells and make your com
SOURCE
Monday, April 15, 2013
Shoppers Guide to Pesticides in Produce
Dirty Dozen Plus™
Buy these organic
1

Apples
2

Celery
3

Sweet bell peppers
4

Peaches
5

Strawberries
6

Nectarines
– imported
– imported
7

Grapes
8

Spinach
9

Lettuce
10

Cucumbers
11

Blueberries
– domestic
– domestic
12

Potatoes
Plus
+

Green beans
+

Kale/Greens
+ May contain pesticide residues of special concern
Clean 15™
Lowest in Pesticide
1

Onions
2

Sweet Corn
3

Pineapples
4

Avocado
5

Cabbage
6

Sweet peas
7

Asparagus
8

Mangoes
9

Eggplant
10

Kiwi
11

Cantaloupe
- domestic
- domestic
12

Sweet potatoes
13

Grapefruit
14

Watermelon
15

Mushrooms
Source A big thank you to Kate, one of our Central Foothills Mommies for telling us about this!
Friday, April 12, 2013
Planning Your First Garden
Starting a vegetable garden at home is an easy way to save money -- that $2 tomato plant can easily provide you with 10 pounds of fruit over the course of a season.
It also gives you the pleasure of savoring a delicious, sun-warmed tomato fresh from the garden. In almost every case, the flavor and texture of varieties you can grow far exceed the best grocery store produce.
Plus, growing vegetables can be fun. It's a great way to spend time with children or have a place to get away and spend time outdoors in the sun.
Growing vegetables is probably easier than you think. If you plan it right, you can enjoy a beautiful garden full of the fruits of your labor -- without having to spend hours and hours tending it. Vegetables and flowers are natural companions, and the combination can turn a potential eyesore into an attractive landscape feature. Read on for more!
It's best to start small with your first garden. Many gardeners get a little too excited at the beginning of the season and plant more than they need -- and end up wasting food and feeling overwhelmed by their garden.
So first, take a look at how much your family will eat. Keep in mind that vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, and squash keep providing throughout the season -- so you may not need many plants to serve your needs. Other vegetables, such as carrots, radishes, and corn, produce only once. You may need to plant more of these.
Once you know what you want to plant, you can figure out how much space your garden will need.
Keep in mind that you don't need a large space to begin a vegetable garden. If you choose to grow in containers, you don't even need a yard -- a deck or balcony may provide plenty of space.
In fact, a well-tended 10x10-foot garden will usually produce more than a weed-filled or disease-ridden 25x50-foot bed.
No matter how big your vegetable garden is, there are three basic requirements for success:
1. Full sun. Most vegetables need at least 6-8 hours of direct sun. If they don't get enough light, they won't bear as much and they'll be more susceptible to attack from insects or diseases.
Here's a hint: If you don't have a spot in full sun, you can still grow many leafy vegetables such as lettuce and spinach. And if you're in a hot-summer climate, cool-season varieties such as peas may do better in part shade.
2. Plenty of water. Because most vegetables aren't very drought tolerant, you'll need to give them a drink during dry spells. The closer your garden is to a source of water, the easier it will be for you.
3. Good soil. As with any kind of garden, success usually starts with the soil. Most vegetables do best in moist, well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter (such as compost or peat moss).
Many gardeners like to have their vegetable gardens close to the house. This makes it easier to harvest fresh produce while you're cooking. It can also be handy to keep a few favorite potted vegetables next to your grill.
- Get gardening tips specific to your region with Gardening Where You Live.
- Discover the best fruits, vegetables, and herbs (plus landscape plants) in our Plant Encyclopedia.
- Check out our collection of gardening videos.
Continued on page 2: Designing Your Vegetable Garden
Wednesday, April 10, 2013
How To Build Your Own Flower/Vegetable Bed
The weather is warming up and gardening will start soon enough, if you haven't already started. Me, I have never planted a garden or anything other than your little mixed flower seed packets at the store. Sometimes they grow, sometimes they don't. I decided that I wanted to look into planting a garden this year. One of my all time favorite people to watch on tv and read their blog is The Pioneer Woman. I ran across this while clicking on random little links on her page. Check this out.
This is the time of year to start thinking about building a raised flower/vegetable bed. I’m planning to put some new beds in a different part of our yard this year…and in some sort of weird configuration. Maybe the shape of a star. Or a rainbow. Or a thumbs-up. I’ll stop talking now.
Here’s my flower bed tutorial from the archives. It really is a cinch.
*****
I have a great project to keep you busy this weekend: pick a good sunny spot in your yard and build a raised vegetable bed!
I have raised vegetable beds around my house, and I love them. They provide good drainage for your plants, and you have more flexibility about where to plant different things. You can get creative and stack the beds, growing herbs in the smaller top area and veggies around the bottom. Or you can create designs with your beds, using geometric shapes to create some sort of pattern.
Because I wanted to show you how to do this and because I asked nicely, my friend Brent came out yesterday with a small pile of supplies and put together a very basic raised bed while I squatted on the ground and photographed the process.
I want you to know that this is the easiest thing in the world to do. If you’re even remotely comfortable with using a drill, this entire project can take under an hour. If not, it still won’t take you very long. And it’ll bring you a great sense of satisfaction…especially when you see that first little hint of a tiny green tomato showing itself.
We’ll cover the soil and other matters later. Today it’s all about building the box.
A small sledge hammer and a drill. Any simple drill will do, and you need a 7/64 #8 counter sink bit.
Everyone should have a 7/64 #8 counter sink bit.
And you need four 2 x 6 boards, cut to 8′…AND four 2 x 6 boards cut to 4′. Pine or cedar work well—but just make sure you do not use pressure-treated (treated) lumber. It’s treated with chemicals that would be harmful to the soil, the plants, and you.
And by the way, all you need to do is take this list to your local hardware store/lumber yard/home improvement warehouse, act really clueless, and they’ll feel sorry for you and get you everything you need. It works for me on a regular basis.
So we’re making a 4 x 8 raised vegetable bed today. But keep in mind that you can do any size you need—just follow this general procedure. Just pick the spot where you want it to go—good morning sun is important—and measure to decide on the best size. Also keep in mind that you can change things up a little bit on your bed—you can make the ends inset a bit and add a little more flair. But I live in the country and have to mow and weedeat a lot of things, so I keep it very, very plain and utilitarian.
The first thing we need to do is drill the pilot holes for the screws. You could drill the screws straight into the board, but because the screws are going close to the end, it could split the board and that would make you cry.
So first, measure in 3/4 inch from the end and side to create two “x” marks on each end of the long boards.
Well, Brent did. But just pretend you did.
Pretend I did, too.
Repeat this on all the long (8′) boards until they all have two pilot holes on each end.
Now it’s time to build the bottom layer. Stand two long boards and two short boards on their sides and line them up…
And insert long screws through the pilot holes of the long boards into the very end of the shorter boards. Hold the boards firmly while you drill.
Just move around until all the screws are in. The purpose here is just to form the rectangle and attach the boards together.
Just kidding. There’s more.
Now we need to secure the base to stakes in the ground, and we have to level the rectangle. So grab a stake and drive it into the very corner of the most level side of the box.
Next, level up the two sides—one short and one long—on either side of the stake. Leveling this bottom layer of the flower bed is very important, so take your time to get it right.
Once that side is level, insert the drill bit again and drill two pilot holes through the board into the stake, and insert two of the shorter screws to secure it..
*Repeat this step: drive a stake into the other corner (on the same side) and attach the board to the stake with screws.
Now, the rectangle is probably still a little caddy-wompuss, so you need to go to the other end now (the end without the stakes) and square it off. Just set the carpenter’s square inside and make it fit. You don’t want a Vegetable Trapezoid.
Level.
Do you know how a level works?
Now that it’s perfectly level, we need to secure the sucker with some more stakes so it won’t ever move again for the rest of its life. So go around the inside of the box, driving one stake in the middle of each short side and two stakes into the middle of each long side.
Drill pilot holes and attach two short screws to each stake. These extra stakes will prevent the bed from expanding and bowing in the middle.
Now, once you’ve attached all the stakes to the inside of the box (there should be a total of ten stakes), you can begin setting on the boards that’ll comprise the top layer.
This part’s a piece of cake. Since you already leveled the bottom layer, you don’t have to mess with that now. All you need to do is attach the boards.
Then, as you add each board, attach the ends with long screws just like you did on the bottom layer.
Almost there, baby! And note that on the far end of the bed, my yard is starting to slightly slope downhill. And since the bed is perfectly level, it’s creating a gap at the bottom. This is no big deal at all; when I prepare the ground and add my dirt, it’ll fill in just fine.
And note: if you like, you can stop at one layer and not add the second layer of boards. I have several single-layer beds and like them fine. But my soil is very clayey and hard here, and I wanted the good drainage of a taller bed.
If you stop at one layer and have a single-layer bed, just use shorter stakes and drive them down so they’re below the level of the board.
So to sum things up…
Supplies:
4 – 2 x 6 boards @ 8 feet long. (Pine or cedar are good choices. Don’t use pressure treated lumber.)
4 – 2 x 6 boards @ 4 feet long.
1# 3 – 3 1/2 exterior screws
1# 2 – 2 1/2 exterior screws
1 bundle 18″ – 24″ stakes
4 – 2 x 6 boards @ 8 feet long. (Pine or cedar are good choices. Don’t use pressure treated lumber.)
4 – 2 x 6 boards @ 4 feet long.
1# 3 – 3 1/2 exterior screws
1# 2 – 2 1/2 exterior screws
1 bundle 18″ – 24″ stakes
Tools:
Tape measure
Pencil
Level
Small sledge hammer
Carpenter’s square
Cordless drill
7/64 #8 counter sink bit
Tape measure
Pencil
Level
Small sledge hammer
Carpenter’s square
Cordless drill
7/64 #8 counter sink bit
Basic instructions:
Set the first side, attach ends with large screws. Attach ends on second side with large screws.
Square and level first side. Drive stakes in corners. Attach stakes to boards with small screws.
Square and level second side. Drive stakes in corners. Attach stakes to boards with small screws.
*Make sure the whole thing is level*
Drive more stakes all along the inside of the box, leaving about 4 inches of stake sticking above the board. Attach stakes to boards with small screws.
Attach upper layer of boards to themselves as you did on the bottom layer, then attach boards to stakes.
Set the first side, attach ends with large screws. Attach ends on second side with large screws.
Square and level first side. Drive stakes in corners. Attach stakes to boards with small screws.
Square and level second side. Drive stakes in corners. Attach stakes to boards with small screws.
*Make sure the whole thing is level*
Drive more stakes all along the inside of the box, leaving about 4 inches of stake sticking above the board. Attach stakes to boards with small screws.
Attach upper layer of boards to themselves as you did on the bottom layer, then attach boards to stakes.
That’s it.
You can do it!
Love,
Pioneer Woman
Pioneer Woman
Have you started planting yet? What is your favorite thing to plant?

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